Bear Cruise · 8 min read
When Our Rhine River Cruise Didn't Go as Planned: Strasbourg to Cologne
When the Best Travel Memories Aren't on the Itinerary
Sometimes the best travel stories begin when the original plan falls apart.
The first part of our World Pride River Cruise had taken us from Basel into Germany's Black Forest aboard the Viking Gersemi. We had arrived as a group of Gay Bears, Chubs and Chasers, some couples and some singles, but friendships had formed almost immediately.
Now it was time to continue our journey along the Rhine toward Amsterdam. At least, that was the plan. Before low water levels completely changed our itinerary, however, we had one beautiful city waiting for us: Strasbourg.
Falling in Love With Strasbourg
Strasbourg was one of those cities that seemed made for photographs. We explored the historic center together, walking past beautiful old timber-framed houses that have survived for generations. The architecture was impressive on its own, but seeing those colorful buildings reflected in the water made the scene even more spectacular.
We couldn't stop taking pictures. The still water created almost perfect reflections of the buildings above it, giving us some of our favorite photos from the trip.
As we walked, our guide shared Strasbourg's fascinating history and explained how the region had shifted between French and German control over the centuries. Suddenly, the combination of influences surrounding us made much more sense.
We also stopped at Strasbourg's magnificent cathedral, where we managed to gather everyone together for a group photo. Those group pictures were becoming increasingly important to us. At the beginning of the trip, they were pictures of people who happened to be traveling together. A few days later, they were becoming pictures of friends.
When in Strasbourg, Eat Tarte Flambée
After our organized tour, we had free time to explore Strasbourg on our own. A few of us decided that sightseeing could wait. We had food priorities.
We found a place where we could try tarte flambée, a specialty of the region consisting of a thin, crisp base traditionally topped with ingredients such as crème fraîche, onions and bacon. Part pizza, part flatbread and entirely delicious, it was exactly the kind of local dish we wanted to try.
One of our favorite things about traveling through Europe is that experiencing a destination isn't only about seeing its landmarks. Sometimes understanding a place means sitting around a table with friends and ordering whatever the region tells you that you absolutely have to eat.
Strasbourg gave us plenty of beautiful sights. Then the Rhine gave us a surprise.
The Rhine Had Other Plans
After Strasbourg, Viking informed us that water levels on the Rhine had fallen too low for the Viking Gersemi to continue along our planned route. That was disappointing. We had booked a river cruise because we wanted to cruise the river. We had imagined sitting on the top deck watching castles, vineyards and villages slowly pass by.
Instead, we were told to pack our bags. Viking had arranged for us to transfer to another ship farther along the Rhine. We would continue sightseeing the following day by motor coach while the crew handled our luggage and the logistics of getting us to our replacement ship, the Viking Hervor.
Was this how we wanted to experience this portion of the Rhine? Absolutely not. But there wasn't much any of us could do about the water level. We could spend the day complaining about it, or we could have some fun. If you've been following this CruisingBears adventure, you can probably guess which option we chose.
Our Unexpected Road Trip to Rüdesheim
The following morning, our bags disappeared into Viking's capable hands while we boarded a motor coach. Our improvised Rhine adventure had officially begun.
Instead of sailing to our next destination, we drove to Rüdesheim, where we had lunch and some time to explore. Then we headed upward. A cable car carried us above the town and vineyards to an overlook with gorgeous views across the Rhine Valley.
After the disappointment of learning that our ship couldn't continue, standing above the Rhine and looking across that landscape was exactly what we needed. The river was still beautiful. We were still in Germany. We were still together. And we were definitely still having fun.
Bellies Out!
We also have photographic evidence. At some point in Rüdesheim, several members of the CruisingBears group decided that a normal group photograph simply wasn't going to capture the mood. Shirts went up. Bellies came out. Cameras started clicking.
There we were, a group of Bears proudly showing off our bellies and demonstrating that a little thing like the Rhine being too low to float our ship wasn't going to ruin our vacation. It's one of our favorite photos from the trip. Not because it's perfectly posed. Not because there's a famous landmark behind us. But because it captures exactly how we felt. The itinerary had changed. Our attitude hadn't.
Six Bottles of Wine and a UNESCO Rhine Adventure
Next came the portion of the day that should have been one of the great scenic sailing experiences of our river cruise. We traveled through the UNESCO-listed section of the Rhine, famous for its scenery and castles. Except we weren't traveling through it on a Viking ship. We were on a motor coach.
Fortunately, the guys sitting toward the back of the bus had a solution. Wine. We still had bottles of complimentary wine from embarkation. Someone had also thought ahead enough to bring cups from the ship. If we couldn't cruise the Rhine, apparently we were going to bring a little bit of the cruise onto the bus.
Cups came out. Wine was poured. Castles appeared outside the windows. Stories started being told. The laughter got louder. And by the end of the drive, the guys in the back had managed to empty six bottles of wine.
We're not entirely sure that's how UNESCO intended visitors to experience this historic stretch of the Rhine. But it worked for us. What could have been a frustrating day became one of the stories we're probably going to tell the longest. That's the advantage of traveling with friends. When plans go wrong, you're surrounded by people who can help turn the problem into an adventure.
Viking Hervor Was Waiting for Us
After our unexpected road trip along the Rhine, we finally arrived at our replacement ship, the Viking Hervor. We were prepared for the inevitable hassle of changing ships and settling into another cabin. Except there really wasn't much hassle. When we entered our new room, our luggage was already there waiting for us. Viking had transferred everything while we were out sightseeing.
There was only one problem. It was time for dinner. Unpacking could wait. Priorities. We ate first, eventually dealt with the suitcases and then made our way to the top deck of the Hervor.
There, surrounded by the friends we'd made only days earlier, we spent the evening talking about everything that had happened. We retold stories. We laughed about the bus. We laughed about the wine. We laughed about the belly photo. And somehow a day that could have been remembered as the day our river cruise went wrong had become one of the most memorable days of the trip.
An Unexpected Bonus: Two Nights in Cologne
The following day brought us to Cologne. We explored the city and saw its magnificent cathedral, but another consequence of the low-water situation soon became apparent. We weren't spending one night in Cologne anymore. We were getting two.
By this point, we'd learned something. When the Rhine changes your itinerary, improvise. So the CruisingBears began discussing what we should do with an unexpected extra night in one of Germany's most LGBTQ+-friendly cities. It didn't take long for someone to suggest Babylon. Decision made.
Our Unexpected Cologne Recommendation: Babylon
Babylon is an adults-only gay establishment in Cologne, so we're going to respect everyone's privacy and keep certain details of our visit exactly where they belong. In Cologne. But we can tell you this: we had a great time.
Some of our group relaxed around the pool. Some enjoyed massages. Others grabbed drinks and simply spent time socializing around the bar and pool areas. What stood out most wasn't anything scandalous. It was how comfortable we felt.
We met local guys, struck up conversations and had an opportunity to experience Cologne's gay community rather than spending all of our time surrounded by other tourists. After days of sightseeing and an unexpected ship transfer, having somewhere to simply relax together was exactly what many of us needed.
For other gay Bear travelers visiting Cologne, Babylon became one of those places we'd be happy to recommend based on our experience. Go. Relax. Meet some locals. As for everything else? You'll have to make your own memories.
What Low Water Taught Us About River Cruising
Nobody books a Rhine River cruise hoping for low water. We certainly didn't. We wanted to sail this stretch of the river aboard the Viking Gersemi, watching castles and vineyards glide past while we relaxed on deck. Instead, here is what our week actually looked like.
- We packed our bags and boarded a motor coach
- We rode a cable car above Rüdesheim
- We stuck our bellies out for a group photo
- We drank six bottles of wine while driving past castles
- We switched from the Viking Gersemi to the Viking Hervor
- We discovered our luggage waiting for us in our new cabins
- We stayed an unexpected second night in Cologne — and ended up at Babylon
Would we have chosen the disruption? Absolutely not. Would we erase the memories it created? Probably not. That's one of the realities of river cruising. Nature gets a vote. Water levels can affect itineraries, and sometimes the experience you planned isn't exactly the experience you get.
But this trip reminded us that who you travel with can matter just as much as where you're going. If we'd been dealing with all those changes alone, the experience might have felt very different. Instead, we were surrounded by friends. There was always someone to talk to, someone ready to pour another glass, someone making everyone laugh and, apparently, someone willing to lift his shirt for a photograph.
The CruisingBears group had started forming on our first afternoon together in Basel. Somewhere between Strasbourg and Cologne, it became something more.
Would We Still Recommend a Rhine River Cruise?
Yes. In fact, the disruption gave us a more realistic understanding of river cruising. A river isn't a set of railroad tracks. Conditions change, and cruise lines sometimes have to change with them.
What mattered to us was how the situation was handled. Viking transported us to the places we were supposed to experience, moved our luggage between ships and had our bags waiting in our new cabin when we arrived aboard the Hervor. Meanwhile, CruisingBears gave us something Viking couldn't put on an itinerary: a group of friends to experience it all with.
If you're considering a group river cruise, particularly as a solo traveler, don't underestimate that part of the experience. Beautiful destinations get you to book the trip. The people you meet can become the reason you remember it.
- Part 1: From Basel to the Black Forest
- How to stop traveling alone and find your crew
- See our upcoming bear cruises
Next Stop: Amsterdam and World Pride
Our Rhine adventure wasn't finished yet. The Viking Hervor would take us onward from Cologne toward the Netherlands, and waiting at the end of the river was the destination around which this entire trip had been built: Amsterdam and World Pride.
After Basel, the Black Forest, Strasbourg, an unexpected road trip, a ship swap, six bottles of wine and an extra night in Cologne, you'd think we'd already accumulated enough stories. Not even close. Amsterdam was waiting. And the CruisingBears were coming.
Next in the series: Cologne to Amsterdam and our World Pride adventure. Sometimes the itinerary you don't get becomes the story you tell the most.